People gasped in horror when we told them we were going to Rwanda on holiday. ‘It’s so dangerous’, ‘Are you crazy’ was the general response. So I’d like to set the record straight and let people know that Rwanda has to be one of the most beautiful and peaceful countries I have ever visited. They experienced a genocide too horrific to even contemplate. That was 14 years ago. It is not forgotten by any means, but it is certainly being dealt with.
The purpose of our holiday was to mountain bike around the country. There were 9 of us, me and 8 lovely men. The fact that my suitcase never ever arrived did have it’s downside, but nothing insurmountable. I guess having a girlfriend in Rwanda the same size as me who cycles was a gift. I have no idea what I would have done without her. But I do know I would have missed out on the most spectacular riding I have ever experienced.
We rode on dirt roads through tea and coffee plantations, through forests, villages, shanty towns and fields. We were either riding up, or we were riding down. In ‘the land of 1000 hills’ there are no flat roads. And no matter where you are, no matter how desolate the space you are in appears to be, if you stop your bike a crowd will gather. Many Rwandans have not seen a white face for weeks, months and sometimes even years. When they saw a group of 9 in lycra on bicycles their joy was contagious. From the minute we were spotted they would begin to shout: Amazungu (That’s what it sounded like) ‘White man’. When they spotted a fair damsel amongst this crazy peloton they would shriek with laughter at the ‘sista’. They shouted ‘kamera’ which means they wish you strength on your journey. No matter how tired you were, their open happy faces would always bring a smile to each of us.
Having no luggage of my own, and still ‘having so much’ is a true lesson. The land is so fertile, I’m sure if one put a stick in the ground it would sprout. So the people can eat. Their clothes are often tatters. Their houses are mud and dust, they have nothing. Yet each morning, and every afternoon, the children go off to school in their little uniforms, because the ethos of the country is pride. And the people understand they need an education. It is a privilege for them, not a burden. They are truly content with their lot.
There is a very strong military presence. And the people are respectfully afraid of the police. The country is clearly run with an iron fist, but it works. It is incredible to ride through the countryside, sweep downhill through forests and alongside lakes. Have the sun on your back, and no need to worry about your security. Sadly this is a true novelty for us South Africans.
We happened upon another ‘Amazungu’ on a ride. He put our adventure to shame. His bike weighed 80kgs, as opposed to our 10kg carbon bikes. He rode in denim shorts and Birkenstocks. When we asked him when he’s left home, he told us 1986. Our bravado was dashed! We were humbled.
Rwanda is a land of a thousand hills. It is beautiful and rugged and proud. We experienced the harshness of physical exertion, and the peacefulness of a people who had been let down and truly risen from the ashes. It restored our faith in humanity, and reminded us each of why we are passionate about cycling. To have experienced this adventure is truly a privilege. My dream is to go back with my sons when they’re older and show them a nation at peace. A country of true beauty. To be able to look the Gorillas in the eye and know they have a future. And to be able to ride the hills and vales the way we did last week.
Directions
We flew Rwanda Air. It’s a direct flight into the country’s capital, Kigali. The flight was about R6400 and the cost of the trip for all 3 meals, a van following us, accommodation, drinks and supplies in the van was approximately R1000 per day. To see the gorillas in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park that the movie ‘Gorilla’s in the Mist’ made famous is US$1500.